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K and R at Sand Mountain Pass
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Snowyside Peak, et al.
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View of the White Cloud Mountains
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Arrowhead and Cramer Divide
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K and Cramer Divide
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Heart above Cramer
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Day 1: Groveling for elk, 12 mi. (14 ERM; ERM = Energy Required Miles),
Grandjean TH to almost Elk Lake.
I’m watching the shimmering green reflections on Benedict Lake and
reporting on the past 2 days: K and I set out for Idaho Falls - where we watched
my youngest brother, Allan win another stock car race at Noise Park in I.F. in car
868. Impressive driving. Then I spent a day helping around the family house and
chopping around the old birch stump in the front lawn. Allan pulled it out with his
truck. Then, slow goodbyes and the long drive to the Grandjean TH along the
South Fork Payette. Ahh, Central Idaho.
The next morning, we set out with very full packs, inching, then creeping as
the day warmed to hot, and we finally groveled to camp near a tiny rivulet just
short of Elk Lake. Delightful, for there were no mosquitoes and it was quiet and
calm.
Day 2: Not quite Ingeborg, 8 miles (10 ERM):
I’m gazing at the reflection and the gray crags forming a backdrop to
Benedict Lake. The low rumple of the entrance stream rolls across the glassy
water and seems to ripple the waves of grass without rumpling the water. My
stomach is protesting the arrival of BBQ tvp (textured vegetable protein) which
will be given away when I return home. (It’s one of those experiences where you
get sick eating a certain food, and it retains that gag reflex evermore. For me, the
aversion of BBQ tvp originated in the Kanab Creek Wilderness.) Yes, I continue
to eat, and greatly enjoy, other tvp mixtures.
We started out mid-morning and hiked to a ford of the Payette River. Once
across, we ate an early lunch beside this clear burble, watching butterflies and
enjoying the warm sun on our toes, then continued on to the Queen River junction
(the river is across the pass) and headed into new territory, the Ingeborg Lake
area. True, Sinclair, Lori, Bruce P. and I had been near this area in our 1980's
transnavigation from Iron Creek to Atlanta, yet only to Spangle Lake. And, yes, K
& I had been to Ardeth Lake in 2001, yet not into this basin at all. After plodding
the 5 mi. from the junction to Benedict, we opted to stop before dropping over or
encountering other campers. With the grays and whites of the Idaho Batholith
turning pink, the mosquitoes have come out to play. Our day’s total miles was
near 8.
Day 3: Ten Lake Basin+; or, it’s Edna, my Dear; 8 miles (11 ERM) to Edna Lake,
near jct. To Sand Mtn. Pass/Toxaway Lake.
Today we rolled from lake basin to lake basin to lake basin. Starting out
from Benedict, we climbed to Rock Slide Lake, then the dazzling Ingeborg before
dropping into Spangle Lakes. Here we met the junction of the trail that goes to
Atlanta. Then we climbed out of the dangle of Spangle to a low pass before
descending to Ardeth. Around Ardeth we hiked before climbing 600' steeply to
another low pass then down into Vernon and Edna Lakes. Spangle drains to the
Middle Boise River while the others drain to the South Fork Payette.
K and I camped at Ardeth Lake 3 yrs. ago, while Sinclair, Pusey, Lori and I
camped at Edna before heading down to the Flytrap Junction and the Middle
Boise. We are currently camped near lake level at Edna Lake just north of the
junction to Sand Mountain Pass. Here we enjoy a grassy terrace that affords
views of toothy tooths and granite domes, and a lovely picnic area too.
Day 4: Sand Mountain Lay over (5 mi; 7 ERM) Hike to views of Toxaway Lake,
Snowyside Mtn and the White Cloud Peaks
The sun arrived very late in camp and we slept in. After a lazy breakfast,
we day hiked the 2.5 mi (nearly 1000' up) to Sand Mountain Pass where stunning
views of the Toxaway Lake Basin screamed out. Down the long valley and
across the Sawtooth Valley rise the white pale ridges of the White Cloud
Mountains - a place that should be official wilderness - yet, we have republican
elitists of greed blocking this obvious official addition to our wild heritage. Eating
lunch at the pass, there is so much to see on either side. Views of Snowyside
Peak, the turquoise of Toxaway far below. And, back toward Edna, the cleft of
the South Fork Payette carves a dark trench between gray granite teeth. It’s cool
up here, nearly on Sand mountain, the pass almost tops the ridge. On our way
back to Edna, we paused where a stream jumps into existence from the talus to
fill the water bottle and watch pika play and Clark’s Nutcrackers attempt to settle
a social dispute. Then it was back to camp to enjoy a dinner of spaghetti,
tomatoes and hummus, dotted with fragrant olive oil, the same oil I use to treat
my feet each morn (well, not exactly the ‘same’ oil). Yummy dinner. So far this
trip, the bugs have been few and the weather grand.
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Middle Cramer Lake
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Sunset at Mid. Cramer
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Hidden Lake
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Baron Falls
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Spiderweb
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Hanging Out
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Day 5: Cramer Stereophonics: To Middle Cramer Lake (7 mi, 9 ERM) (ERM =
energy required miles):
The Arrowhead glows a bronze beacon over the Cramer cirque. A waterfall
tumbles into Middle Cramer, across the lake and seemingly directly below the
arrowhead. At the outlet, where we are camped, water cascades and falls out of
sight - both falls provide Cramer stereophonics.
Today we have relished several zen gardens replete with many flowers I
don’t know, plus yellow and red paintbrush, pink and gold monkeyflowers, yarrow,
some type of lady slipper, elephanthead, shooting star, red heather, phlox and
lots of other stuff along our shuffle from the cold air sink of Edna to the azure blue
of sky and lake at Hidden Lake - on up to the dazzling spires and spikes forming
the ridge from Cramer Divide to Mt. Cramer. Then, down and down among the
rock glacier debris to a heart-shaped pond and finally back into trees near the
Cramer trio. A late afternoon was invested in a warm shower and a bit of
lounging contemplation on the polished granite which is presently our kitchen
Day 6: Baron Backtrack: Cramer to Lower Baron Lake 7.5 mi (10 ERM):
We’re sitting poolside to Baron Lake just a few hundred yards from camp
#1 of the 2001 trip. So much different, with the bright blue skies and no other
hikers to be seen. Mare’s tail clouds seem to be signaling a possible end to our
stretch of delightful weather. Cranking up the stove, we awe as the lake surface
calms, the fish jump, and we hear the snow melt gurgling from across the pond.
It was an elevator day. From Cramer, we rolled down to 7400' at Flatrock
Jct., then immediately began climbing to Alpine Lake, past the froggy pond and to
what I call Alpine Pass at about 9300' before a corkscrew descent to the Baron
Lakes at 8200'.
We interrupt this entry for a series of photos of Monte Verita aglow with
salmon pinks reflected in Baron Lake. Yow! What a lovely sight. As we watch
the changing hues of sunset in the cirque, it is so still we can hear water burbling
into the lake from across the way.
Today near Slickrock Junction we encountered ancient, even by my
present standards, day hikers who had taken the boat across to Redfish Lake
inlet and were on their way to Alpine Lake - a 10 mi. round trip venture. We also
met David Markham from “Venture Outdoors” with llama and sea kayak outfitters
based in Bellevue, ID. As the light fades, we head off to rest up for the long route
out.
Earlier, we noted that one gets fine views into the Cramer Cirque just at the
top of the switchbacks to Alpine Lake and again from the pass above Baron
Lakes. One can see the Arrowhead from these vantage points.
Day 7: Baron Roll-Out: 11.5 miles (14.5 ERM) Lower Baron Lake - Grandjean TH.
The sun is setting in the Grandjean CG and the sadness/feeling of
accomplishment and other paisley emotions are settling in on the end of a fine
adventure. We’ve showered, eaten at the Sawtooth Lodge (soon to be sold for
$1,300,000) and set up a partial camp in the C.G. We’re just too tired for the long
drive home and, besides, why leave this wondrous place so soon?!
The day started fairly early as we awake to, again, fair skies and a glassy
smooth Baron Lake. Leaving this quiet setting, we started the drop past Baron
Falls and the falls coming down from Tohobit Peak over exposed slithers of Idaho
rock and into the forest. Warbonnet Peak remains hidden as we continue to drop
into Ponderosa Pine land, their faint vanilla scent occasionally washes over us,
adding diversity to the 3000' drop to Grandjean. My feet were bruised and
shoulders tired when we stumbled into the very warm (high 80's) TH. A cold
shower in the CG and a very late 3rd lunch saved the day. Oh, to purchase and
live at the Sawtooth Lodge - if only for 4 months each year, sigh...
We had considered adding the Sawtooth Lake loop onto our current
venture because of love of roaming and because it does share the Grandjean TH.
Yet, we were out of time and food too, so this walkabout will wait for a future trek.
In the cool morning, we headed out for the haze of Smog Lake. Along the
way, we paused at the Stanley Ranger Station, where I released a book into the
wild. Wonder what this is? See: http://www.bookcrossing.com and search for
BCID: 746-1891307 (this will all make sense once you try it out).
Epilogue: Bushco has added almost no wilderness to our national system, far far
less than even the budget-buster former king Ronny Reagan, who signed 43
wilderness bills. (Bushco is the new emperor in bankrupting the U.S.,
environmentally and economically.) Bushco actions have resulted in the
destruction of many natural areas, areas where we revive our spirits, get our
clean water and air, where islands of biodiversity hold promise for science of all
sorts, where nature retains all the precious parts without tinkering.
In the ‘Tooths,
we wandered without the war mongering lies and maneuvers of the military
industrial elite, such as color-coded fear distractions engineered for fear and to
cover lies and deception about an unprovoked, unnecessary war for oil and
religious oppression, and the massive budget deficits, rape of our environment, corrosion
of civil rights, and job-exportation. Only the “religious” Right has the right! to tell
everyone what “religion” is the right one, and in an inspiring non-religious manner
too! Fear! Fear, fear - look the other way while bushco erodes our liberties,
saddles our children with an enduring legacy of red ink, destroys our
environment, and jeopardizes our health and health care coverage. Fear!
That’s the bushco mantra.
We relished in a forest wilderness that does not (yet) know the
oppression of “forest health” via chain saw and skidder (a bushco Orwellian
distortion so common among the republican elite of bushville). Cutting down the
forest to save the trees is bushco logic.
Where have the republican conservative
values of fiscal discipline, limited government, and individual accountability
gone?? In four years, bushco has not vetoed a single spending bill, yet his war
actions and absolute favoritism to corporate welfare have exploded the deficit by
more than $800 billion (and counting by billions). The elitist patriot decree
violates our private lives. The every child left behind unfunded “education reform”
concentrates power and control at the federal level (what about local control?).
Limited government? Yes, absolutely no government to be seen when corporate
welfare artists are engaged in criminal behavior. Does an industry such as oil
anything want less regulation? Sure, says bushco. So what if increased mercury emissions
from unregulated power plants, etc. ruins your health, endangers the future of the
planet (global warming? “Doesn’t exist!”, says bushco). If you are a member of
the wealthy elite, there will be no government. For everyone else, there is the
intrusion of the “you are no patriot if you don’t contribute millions to the elite” act,
and, yes, a tax break for the elite (none for you, just a host of patronizing praise to
king bushco rhetoric).
"You are either with us or against us!" shriek the fear mongers.
And, what about free speech? Hah, you are either a patriot just like us at bushco, or you are
an evil doer. Tolerance, diversity, free speech? hah, just think and feel the fear. If you are
not a member of the corporate elite, you must make certain sacrifices to support the war for oil
and "religious" domination, make certain "concessions" in your health, environmental protection,
economic future (and that of your grandchildren), in your constitutional protections and personal
liberties... not much, just abandon your freedoms and your integrity for the sake
of fear being fed to you daily by the elitists at bushco. This sounds just like what a terrorist
would have us do, what do you think?
It’s socialism and welfare for corporations and the wealthy
elite, corrupt and unfair capitalism for everyone else. Certainly, there is no
conservation in bushco (unless of course, to conserve the welfare for the wealthy
egomaniacal elite, because they get a tax gift paid for by our environment, our
future, and human values). Just what did you expect? Affordable health
coverage, hah! A clean, healthy environment, hah! Fair tax treatment, hah!
Social Security/Veterans’ benefits/education funding, hah! A government that
saves resources for our future and present Americans (economic and
environmental), hah! No republican or human of integrity would vote for a
member of bushco. To do so is hypocritical and inhumane.
Save our environment, plant a bush in texas.
Somewhere in texas, a village is missing its idiot (send him home, please).
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