Precious Canyon Gems:
Grand Canyon Trip Report - Tonto West / Hermit's Rest / South Bass / Colorado River / Canyons named for Rocks
 
(April 4 to 10, 2009)
Text © copyright by Rob; and Photos © copyright by Rob

Co-Adventurers: Zig S., Chris W., Kathleen, & Rob

This Report is part of the Grand Canyon Spring 2009 Trilogy! The Trilogy includes:
(This Report) Precious Canyon Gems: Hermit to South Bass
Grapevine Galleria of the Grand Canyon: Bright Angel to Grandview on Tonto East
Torrid Tapeat - Fishtail Frolic: Thunder River-Colorado-Deer Cr. - N Rim

  With an after-backpack snowfest in THE Maze (click here).
The Maze report follows the GC report - at the bottom of this page.

Ruby Canyon at Sunset
Ruby Canyon at Sunset
(Click the image for the full-size image)
(There are - 52 photos embedded in the trip narrative.)

Precious = of high price or great value; very valuable or costly, highly esteemed for some spiritual, nonmaterial, or moral quality, dear; beloved.

     Total trip miles hiked = 52.8, ERM = 91.

Total descent = @ 10450'; total ascent = @ 9760' over 52 miles.

     ERM = Energy Required Miles. A mile is added for every 500' elevation gain or loss. It's a very serviceable method of estimating energy required miles.

Map - GC: Gems: Hermit to South Bass; 2009; 53 miles
Map - GC: Gems: Hermit to South Bass; 2009; 53 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

day 1 freezeout
day 1 freezeout
(Click the image for a full-size view)
snow-on-paintbrush
snow-on-paintbrush
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Hermit down
Hermit down
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Chris on Hermit
Chris on Hermit
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Hermit Scenic Toilet
Hermit Scenic Toilet
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Hermit Scenic Toilet
Hermit Scenic Toilet
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Old Hermit Camp
Old Hermit Camp
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Old Hermit Camp
Old Hermit Camp
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Kathleen indicates Day 2
Kathleen indicates Day 2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
to Boucher
to Boucher
(Click the image for a full-size view)
to Boucher
to Boucher
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Boucher cache
Boucher cache
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 1: Hermit Slide: Hermit's Rest TH to Hermit Creek Camp; 8 miles, ERM of 18 (approx. 670' ascent and 4400' descent over 8.1 miles).
     Slipping off the rock and hitting the trail with a splat, I discovered another black ice trail rock in the top section of the Hermit Trail. Ouch. Five layers of clothes and wool mittens and hat are just about right in this mid 20F stroll laden with enough food for 9 days and 8 nights. A Gem of an adventure!
     A number of switchbacks down and the ground is a bit thawed and the ice less frequent. A raging, albeit brief, storm had zipped through last night, coating the rocks and trees with a dappling of snow and ice. Lucky us.
     Now, I'm sitting on our same kitchen rock from last year's Hermit Hiatus 2008. (click here for the full report) , gazing at streamside Monkey Flowers and listening to the burble of Hermit Creek - thankfully drowning out much of the miserable air tour terrorist noise. See the "closing comments" at the end of this page for notes about returning natural quiet to The Grand Canyon.
     Natural quiet? Not often - even here. Kathleen, Chris, and Zig are napping and I'm off to explore what's left of Hermit Camp, the camp developed in years of yore by Boucher the Hermit, that is. I find a splendid scenic toilet in the historic Hermit Camp. Link to scenic toilet page. (click here for full scatological display)
     At the old Hermit Camp, I find several large iron cable wheels, a root cellar, a cistern, and many leveled tent spots.

     Day 2: Boucher Bop - Hermit Cr. Camp to Boucher Cr. 5.8 miles; 9 ERM. GPS total: 13.9 (5.8 today);descent of 5411' (1012 today); ascent of 1467' (796 today).
     I sleep well and soon it is morning and we pack slowly and set out for Boucher. As noted in the day's statistics, we roll along the Tonto, staying somewhat on the contour. Views of The River erupt, punctuated by beginning blooms of Lavender, Brittlebush, cactus, Maricopa, paintbrush, and others.
     The froggies of Boucher crank up the volume as Zig constructs the storage granary for our food cache.

Day 3 - going to Slate
Day 3 - going to Slate
(Click the image for a full-size view)
to Slate
to Slate
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Monument in Slate
Monument in Slate
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Chris and Slate Glow
Chris and Slate Glow
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Slate Glow
Slate Glow
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Slate Glow
Slate Glow
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 3: Slate Serenade - Boucher to Slate Creek. 5.5 miles; 9 ERM. GPS total: 19.4 miles (5.5 today); descent of 6157' (746 today); ascent of 2597' (1130 today).
     The croakers' serenade careens from the canyon walls. Water - precious and life-enhancing water. We're relishing the shade of a rare juniper where the vague Tonto Trail finally cruises into the Slate drainage.
     Contemplating the fairly long pitch to Turquoise, we wonder aloud about packing water to Agate to break the distance into more manageable chunks. A protein bar and careful measurement with the wire from the GC permit and we see that the good choice is to stay at Slate tonight and slog to Turquoise tomorrow.
     Late afternoon and B., C., and 7 others who woke us stomping into Boucher Camp long after sunset last night drag in to our miniscule shade. Not looking good. After a break, most of the 9 head for the point to camp. B. has vertigo issues and cannot proceed - the SAT phone is in play and the rangers say to the 9 "call in the morning and plan to walk out." Short story - it's the end of their jaunt to South Bass. It's a terrible outcome after all their dreaming.
     Natural quiet returns and a few romantic froggies replace the intrusive drone of the air terrorists - supporting terror with each trip, wasting fuel, polluting the air, causing higher medical costs due to obesity, ruining the day, praise the lord. Night settles in like a down comforter.

Scylla Butte
Scylla Butte
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water in Sapphire
water in Sapphire
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Froggie Crunch
Froggie Crunch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Primrose
Primrose
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Canyon Tree Frog
Canyon Tree Frog
(Click the image for a full-size view)
To Turquoise
To Turquoise
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To Turquoise
To Turquoise
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To Turquoise
To Turquoise
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Turquoise Kitchen
Turquoise Kitchen
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 4: Torque to Turquoise - Tonto Dreaming - Slate to Turquoise; 10.1 miles; 14 ERM.
    GPS total: 29.5 miles (10.1 today); descent of 7357' (1200 today); ascent of 3762' (1165 today).
     The tinge of pink blushes softly across the tip of Scorpion Ridge. Delightful. Frogs croak in with bursts of lust. Heat-driven gusts attempt to float the tent down Turquoise Canyon to The River.
     A fitting end to a day of Tonto Dreaming. Walking the Tonto, I blink and the Tonto "Trail" is no more. Where? What? Calling the Tonto a "Trail" in this section is like calling george w. bush a person interested in the rule of law - it's more than a stretch of the term, it's just not true. A veracity-challenged statement at the least.
     Around points and into drainages, the Tonto plods on and on. We arrive to lovely water in Turquoise.
     Marvin of Bountiful arrives near sunset and later Dean and Robyn of the NPS arrive and we chat about the Eastern 9 and wonder where they might be. A wind and high cirrus clouds also arrive - and we get the wind. The moon is nearly full and its pale glare illuminates our inner earth world.

Marvin at Turquoise
Marvin at Turquoise
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Dean and Robyn at Turquoise
Dean and Robyn at Turquoise
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Group at Turquoise
Group at Turquoise
(Click the image for a full-size view)
To Ruby in the wind
To Ruby in the wind
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Ruby lobes
Ruby lobes
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Mr. Lizard
Mr. Lizard
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Ruby - cactus
Ruby - cactus
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Ruby - mariposa
Ruby - mariposa
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Ruby camp
Ruby camp
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 5: Ruby Rapture! The alignment of Canyon Karma Covariates and the Story of the South Bass! - Turquoise to Ruby; 7 miles, 12 ERM.
     GPS total: 36.5 miles (7.0 today); descent of 8496' (1239 today); ascent of 5017' (1255 today).
     Morning dawns slowly in this deep dessert canyon. The glow seeps in and I wonder, half aware, if it's moonlight or daylight, and does it matter?
     Around the morning pack stove, we wonder about the route to the South Bass and "Click!" the karma consciousness ignites. We are here, Marvin is here, the rangers are here, and the Easterners 9 are not. Our permit is for an out and back to Hermit, with Turquoise as the terminus. The formulation of a plan comes together. The conclusion is that Dean, of the NPS, alters our permit and Marvin's permit (so we can camp at the TH when Marvin returns to get us - he started at S. Bass and has a truck at Hermit's Rest). Marvin will get our cache at Boucher and come to get us at the top of S. Bass. Yahoo.
     Later today we meet 3 hikers who ask us to drive their vehicle to Hermit's Rest from S. Bass TH. All is good.
     We hike the Shaler and LeConte Plateaus sans the horrible intrusive noise of air terrorists and in very wild conditions. Delightful. Refreshing. The terrain is a bit difficult when we round through rock-choked drainages. To Ruby, and this delightful narrow canyon with a good view of Sagittarius Ridge to the North and the stunning escarpment of the Redwall Limestone on three sides. Early local sunset and perhaps the cool front following the storm line make for a chilly evening - so early to bed.

Day 6 - Great Scenic Divide
Day 6 - Great Scenic Divide
(Click the image for a full-size view)
shift in rocks
shift in rocks
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bending rock
bending rock
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Bass Can Dike
Bass Can Dike
(Click the image for a full-size view)
tadpole soup
tadpole soup
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Bass historic camp
Bass historic camp
(Click the image for a full-size view)

(There are - More photos below the trip narrative.)

     Day 6: Your Ass to Bass - Ruby to S. Bass Historical Camp. 10 miles; 16 ERM.
     GPS total: 46.5 miles (10 today); descent of 10227' (1731 today); ascent of 6606' (1589 today).
     Suspended between the emerald ribbon far below and the sheer red escarpment above, we walk the Tonto Trail on the stretch from Ruby to South Bass Canyon. The Grand Scenic Divide looms, and we creep slowly toward then around it.
     Again, we see people, albeit only two today. Glorious. Somewhere along the way we cross Emerald Canyon, then Serpentine - which has water of ill repute. So, on to Bass, where we hike down canyon and find pools of water near what may be the site of the historic Bass Camp.
     A huge slanted slab of naked metamorphic polished bedrock graces the drainage and funnels water into the pot holes. Bring a line and a pot to get water from the deepest pool because you might get in, but getting out is for sticky-toed froggies only.
     Winds calm, clouds float in and obscure the sky. Is a storm imminent? Across the canyon, we wonder - is that the phallic spire of Set? Chris' water filter grinds to a hose-popping halt.

Day 7 naked rock
Day 7 naked rock
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Chris on S Bass steps
Chris on S Bass steps
(Click the image for a full-size view)
S Bass going out
S Bass going out
(Click the image for a full-size view)
S Bass Arch
S Bass Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
S Bass Arch
S Bass Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
S Bass Pueblo
S Bass Pueblo
(Click the image for a full-size view)
S Bass Pueblo
S Bass Pueblo
(Click the image for a full-size view)
bloom follows the snow
bloom follows the snow
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Zig at the TH
Zig at the TH
(Click the image for a full-size view)

     Day 7: Bassamatic Engineering - S. Bass Historical Camp to S. Bass TH. 6.3 miles; 13 ERM.
     GPS total: 52.8 miles (6.3 today); descent of 10446' (219 today); ascent of 9766' (3160 today). Total ERM - 91.
     The stone steps punctuate the engineering skill that is the South Bass Trail. Hardly any elevation loss over 6+ miles and about 3200' of elevation gain. Astounding.
     It's a gray day as we march up the Bass - a real treat compared to other GC trails - quiet, well engineered, with steps designed for people, not pack animals. Of course, we feel some like pack animals, and I must be the mule. A delightful bench interrupts the ascent between the Supai and Coconino, and the trail wanders through Pinon Pines. Sylvan. A small arch near the top of the Coconino layer and a pueblo ruin near the bottom of the Toroweap add zest to an already alluring climb.
     Continuing gray skies and biting winds are unrelenting at the TH as we contemplate camping at the TH - deciding to go out before the storm, and making contingency plans to not miss Marvin, who is on his way in to meet us (but does not know we were given car keys for a vehicle to shuttle back to Hermit).
     It's a 30+ mile dirt and sometimes clay (dry for now) road and we meet Marvin at the reservation boundary. More vehicle switching, a quick dinner at the cafeteria, and we're traveling home. Zig, Marvin, Kathleen, and I continue on as Chris heads for Smog Lake.
     Snow settles over the plateau tonight.

     Postscript - A most excellent adventure, albeit the cache remains at Boucher. Zig tries for a quick permit to retrieve the cache, but there is nothing available until late May. Damn - I guess we'll have to schedule another jaunt into The Canyon.

Links:

Maps:

Map - GC: Gems: Hermit to South Bass; 2009; 53 miles
Map - GC: Gems: Hermit to South Bass; 2009; 53 miles
(Click the image to see the map)

for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Other WV reports about the Grand Canyon:

Click here or on the Looking Lizard to go to all WV reports about The Grand Canyon

All Wilderness Vagabond trip reports about the Grand Canyon
Looking for All Wilderness Vagabond trip reports about the Grand Canyon?
Click the image to go to All WV reports about The Grand Canyon

Closing remarks:

Part 1: restore natural quiet in the Grand Canyon
An open letter to:
Steve Martin, Superintendent
Grand Canyon National Park
P.O. Box 129
Grand Canyon, AZ 86023

Superintendent Martin,

I wrote to the FAA after a visit to the Grand Canyon in the 70's, and I was told that a decision to deal with intrusive air tours was imminent. Nothing much positive has happened, and air tours routinely and frequently (nearly constantly during daylight) destroy natural quiet in the park and surrounding public lands. I am writing to request that you immediately (please, not another 30 years of delays!) work toward restoring natural quiet in the park and surrounding public lands. National security and public health issues are also important, and these are briefly reviewed below. There is essentially no valid support (except private profit as it relates to political arm-twisting) for air tours within a national park, being an anathema to the mission and purpose of the National Park Service. I urge you to completely eliminate air tours from Grand Canyon National Park. You will undoubtedly reply that this is politically "impossible." However, in support of natural quiet, the continuity of the Park, national security, and global health, I urge you to begin the appropriate containment and speedy elimination of intrusive air tours. Please:

1. Finite Number of Tours - Put a permanent cap on the number of air tour rides over Grand Canyon National Park. The number of flights should be at one-half the level it was when Congress first addressed Park aircraft noise — 1975. Then, phase out air tours to zero - over the next 3 years.

2. Curfews - The existing early morning and late evening curfews are as short as 14 minutes; they should be expanded to a minimum of 3 hours morning and 3 hours evening. One morning and evening hour of curfew should be added each year until air tours are eliminated.

3. Flight Free Zones - The area of flight free zones should be increased until natural quiet is substantially restored every day of the year. See above.

4. Quieter Technology - A transition to quieter technology should be part of the solution. Quieter technology aircraft are commonly used in Europe. We should phase out aircraft not having the latest quiet technology over the next year.

5. Altitude Limits - all aircraft (except rescue craft or NPS craft on essential missions) should maintain a minimum altitude of 3,000' above the level of the North Rim. Departure/Approach should occur over private land. Wild (unroaded) National Forest and other public lands should not become the location of displaced air tour noise and intrusions, so altitude and flight limits should also apply over these lands.

6. National Security - Air tours consume huge amounts of precious and limited fossil fuels. This is a national security issue, and encourages/supports terrorism. All governmental agencies should be involved in making us independent of coercion based on fuel supplies. Reducing and eventually eliminating air tours should be part of these efforts. The views from the rim are easily accessible to visitors in a hurry, or visitors lacking the energy or physical capacity to hike the inner canyon. Of course, with the reduction of air tours - an added bonus is that visitors might enjoy the natural quiet in addition to the spectacular scenery.

7. Global Warming - The end of Nature? Yes, there is little doubt that air tours contribute too much in the negative to this profound and universal problem. Reducing/eliminating air tours is a good thing, globally and locally.

8. Public Health Issues/national debt - Air tours should be viewed like smoking. Smoking causes medical problems for all who are exposed, willing participants or not. Air tours encourage visitors to become more sedentary, increasing public/private health care costs, decreasing productivity and causing untold stress to the nation and to families. Air tours intrude into the health of those not willingly participating in this waste of fuel and destruction of natural quiet and harmonious experience with the natural world. Air tours add significantly to stress because of their intrusive, irritating noise and visual pollution. Air tours (like smoking) should be restricted to private land where people voluntarily participate in the devastation of their health and personal (not public!) resources.

Part 2: We Are Breeding Ourselves to Extinction

We Are Breeding Ourselves to Extinction (click here for full article)

All measures to thwart the degradation and destruction of our ecosystem will be useless if we do not cut population growth. By 2050, if we continue to reproduce at the current rate, the planet will have between 8 billion and 10 billion people, according to a recent U.N. forecast. This is a 50 percent increase. And yet government-commissioned reviews, such as the Stern report in Britain, do not mention the word population. Books and documentaries that deal with the climate crisis, including Al Gore’s “An Inconvenient Truth,” fail to discuss the danger of population growth. This omission is odd, given that a doubling in population, even if we cut back on the use of fossil fuels, shut down all our coal-burning power plants and build seas of wind turbines, will plunge us into an age of extinction and desolation unseen since the end of the Mesozoic era, 65 million years ago, when the dinosaurs disappeared.

We are experiencing an accelerated obliteration of the planet’s life-forms—an estimated 8,760 species die off per year—because, simply put, there are too many people. Most of these extinctions are the direct result of the expanding need for energy, housing, food and other resources. The Yangtze River dolphin, Atlantic gray whale, West African black rhino, Merriam’s elk, California grizzly bear, silver trout, blue pike and dusky seaside sparrow are all victims of human overpopulation. Population growth, as E.O. Wilson says, is “the monster on the land.” Species are vanishing at a rate of a hundred to a thousand times faster than they did before the arrival of humans. If the current rate of extinction continues, Homo sapiens will be one of the few life-forms left on the planet, its members scrambling violently among themselves for water, food, fossil fuels and perhaps air until they too disappear. Humanity, Wilson says, is leaving the Cenozoic, the age of mammals, and entering the Eremozoic—the era of solitude. As long as the Earth is viewed as the personal property of the human race, a belief embraced by everyone from born-again Christians to Marxists to free-market economists, we are destined to soon inhabit a biological wasteland.

Next, the after-backpack snow-bound excursion in The Maze, near Teapot Rock
April 14-16, 2009

Dusted Orange Cliffs
Dusted Orange Cliffs
(Click the image for the full-size image)

Map - UT: Canyonlands - Maze; 2009; Hite to Teapot - driving
Map - UT: Canyonlands - Maze; 2009; Hite to Teapot - driving
(Click the image to see the map)

for a full-resolution map, click here. Caution - do not use this map or gps track for navigating the route.

Click here to see a short clip of the Horizonal snowstorm at Teapot Rock.

     Day 1: Resilient Reptile Drive to Teapot Rock, The Maze District.
     The lean, long juniper root straggles across most of the Waterhole Flat Road, Road 633 from near Hite to THE Maze from the South. Yikes - that's a snake, not a root, I exclaim to myself as I slide the truck tires a bit and succeed in straddling the snake, then stop and go to see if it's really a snake.
     Yes, and a very upset snake, judging by the hissing and false striking when I attempt to herd her off the road. She's probably a bit cool and grumpy, why, I'm cool and grumpy standing out in this wind.
     I've found a few arches along the way - including Cove Arch.
     Earlier - I stop at Hite and locate the pay phone near the unmanned R.S. to call Hans Flat for completion of my backcountry permit, which is difficult with the rising gale. I laugh at the low level of the sewage pond - victim of a drought created by overpopulation of this, our only Earth. No refunds.
     Bumping to a total of 38 miles from Hwy 95, I'm about 3 miles along the Teapot Rock Rd. which eventually leads to the Doll House, when I decide I've gone about a half a mile too far and find a wide spot in which to park.
     Fierce winds rock and tilt the truck as I try to sleep. No rain - at least not yet.

     Day 2: Listless Blast-out.
     I'm hiding out in my big red raincoat and windbreak, my small red truck. A non-productive mud storm forces me to abandon my rally to start hiking. All day, gale-force winds, icy and promising, but not delivering rain or snow, have rocked the vehicle and blown away my hat.
     Glipses of Standing Rocks to the NE are rare. I invest a couple of hours marking approximate locations from the WAD onto my topo quads.
     Two vehicles leave - the last reporting that the area is empty of people and describing how the winds scooped sand under the tent fly - to come raining down on their faces and such. Brutal. Yet, it's better than tax day in town.
     As I write these notes, a horizontal snow storm ensues. Yikes.
     Yikes indeed. I gave up cowering from fierce storms and headed home, vowing to try again later.

     Arches on Rd 633, from near Hite to The Maze:

     Starting at MP 46.4 on Hwy 95, at the top of the hill climbing out above the bridge over the Colorado River and headed for the Dirty Devil Bridge (if you reach the Dirty Devil Bridge, turn around -you have gone too far), drive North onto Road 633, which travels to the Orange Cliffs area of The Maze District of Canyonlands NP. MP 0 for Hwy. 95 is at Hanksville, Utah.

     Set your odometer to zero (0) when you leave Hwy 95. See the map above.

     Maze 633 Arch 1 is on your right at 13.6 miles from Hwy 95. GPS coordinates are roughly: UTM 12 S 561441E; 4197395N; WGS84

     Maze 633 Arch 2 can be seen from the car park for Arch 1, and is another mile and a half up the road.

     Cove Arch is on your right at 21.4 miles from Hwy 95. Pull off on the slickrock on your right, and look just below your level and about 600 feet to the East for Cove Arch. GPS coordinates for Cove are roughly: UTM 12 S 568607E; 4202738N; WGS84

     Maze 633 Arch 3 is on your left at 25.5 miles from Hwy 95. GPS coordinates for the carpark to view this arch are roughly: UTM 12 S 571511E; 4207391N; WGS84

resilient reptile
resilient reptile
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Unhappy to leave the road
Unhappy to leave the road
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Maze 633 Arch1
Maze 633 Arch1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Maze 633 Arch1
Maze 633 Arch1
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Maze 633 Arch1 GPS
Maze 633 Arch1 GPS
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Maze 633 Arch2
Maze 633 Arch2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Maze 633 Arch2
Maze 633 Arch2
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Cove Arch
Cove Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Cove Arch
Cove Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Cove Arch
Cove Arch
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Cove Arch GPS
Cove Arch GPS
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Maze 633 Arch3
Maze 633 Arch3
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Maze 633 Arch3
Maze 633 Arch3
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Maze 633 Arch3 GPS
Maze 633 Arch3 GPS
(Click the image for a full-size view)
standing rocks
standing rocks
(Click the image for a full-size view)
Movie of horizontal snowstorm
Movie of horizontal snowstorm
(Click the image to see the movie)
jacob's chair
jacob's chair
(Click the image for a full-size view)
cheese box butte
cheese box butte
(Click the image for a full-size view)

Bye for now - Orange Cliffs
Bye for now - Orange Cliffs
(Click the image for the full-size image)


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